Pondi-Puduchery

As my promsing travel companion wakes up on sunday I have proposal ready, 'Fancy some french delicacies today?' People have hard time disassociating with french connection and say 'NO' to backery! (like he says in Movie the GodFather, put a offer that they cant refuse!)

So we start for Pondicherry. As kid I saw my father had admiration for Sri Arbindo and I recognised the face of that seer in his old age. (Kaka, why you never told me this Arbindo was cambridge student, poet, writer, painter, advisor in princely state of Baroda, Freedom activist and one who translated works of kavi kalidas? Most importantly had I known he was fit, smart and handsome young man with aura, I would have taken trouble to read the literature you brought at tender age of 10)

That says lot about our Bong-Bondhu. They are different race altogether, Ravindranath, bipin chandra, vivekanand, vidyasagar and many more were multi multi talented. And also it defeats the claim by brain scientist about right and left brian and being able to master either this or that!

So we arrive in 'zis' Asharam campus. Now Arvind had spiritual companion known as Mother. She said I will bring my french architecture (O Be my guest), To match it properly we will name the streets in french RUE too (thats fine by us too). I will bring backing dishes ( we have sweet tooth anyway), I will bring the bicycle for ladies to ride across 'zis' cute ashram township (thats great too, we Indians like them anyway as patrol has been always expensive here). Even canal runs in middle just like Rhine.


So Arvind, lived in ManCHEster (really? me too), he lived in London near sheferds Bush ( Dont believe this, Me too), He lived in Aberdeen ( yes, me stayed there too), 3 brothers studies at manchester grammer school for Boys ( Is that right? I drove passed this school 4 times in a day every day). See, Yesterday I hardly knew Arvind and today I have great affiinity for him. He too got cricling the round-abouts of Britain. Came to India and experimented with spirituality ( me too!! fascinating), I must be his 'follower' in very sense of the word!

This place has a very different charm and grace for sure.

We first end our journey on promenade and sit on those big black shiny cubes of rocks. Once again, without plunging to be able to enjoy the sea is what Indians have taught me. People come single or in groups, all ages and sit without any huf and puf and gaze in the distance. I had to sit and close my eyes for 7 minutes. At that time, the sky changes its look every second and when you open your eyes after closing for few minutes at dusk, everything looks transformed. I feel completely enveloped by ocean with his sound and waves and rumbling waters. Without a splash we feel refreshed.

We visit the samadhi and on sunday evening there is mass meditation in playground, so we go for it. people in masses gather and sit on sandy playground. All the lights are switched off and you see open stary / moon lit sky. Organ plays there is short speech by mother. Todays topic: Stay away from any type of politics, its a waste. ( whats new there? My mother always told me this!!) And then 20 minutes of meditation. They keep empty chair for mother in backdrop of akhand bharat map. School kids also possess something special about them.

For staying there are plenty of guest house ranging from 150-600 ruppees. We chose one facing the sea. East facing open gallary on bay of bangal. I am waiting for sunrise now! rooms have focal point from works of sri arbindo. The garden between the building and the sea is also decorated on theme from his work, to suit meditation poins, some architectual work, or gardening craftmanship or collection of natural beautyful objects. Canteen served basic and tasty food with literature. I absolutely loved my guest house.

Next day, we visit Auroville. My guide/ friend insisted I must visit Matri Mandir in auroville. It needs advance booking to spend few minutes inside but friends who have gone places for meditation say that its the best place. dom covered with gold discs reflects heat and inside in complete marble. only one ray enters from the top passes through massive crystal and enrgizes the entire medtation space. I had to let go of this chance. Incompleteness is good, it makes you want to go back again. I get some red-chanothi ornament from eco-friendly auroville and on way we pick up some really good lemon cake. I collect some patented agarbatti from auroshikha.

At least four hours we travel cross country after leaving the motorway. For 2.5 hours the roadsides are covered with Mango trees. On way back we stopped to tresspass in some of very inviting grooves and collected some. Travelling on road is really a treat to eyes, laari full of jasmin buds, truck after truck continuosly carrying sugarcane, taadee. heaps of grapes, heaps of mangos, coconut. In and around Ashram 3 laari full of lotuses. Neighbouring Vinayak temple they were insisting we get offering from them. one fully bloomed white and one pink with coconut will cost 25 ruppees. I let go of temptation to own this divine flower.

more later...

Grace-Gratitude-Goodwill

I want to thank many many individuals for countless gestures of goodwill. Lot to feel good about. It is natural to thank when people offer support in difficult times but when going gets smoother, I feel even more weighed down with gratitude for all that I have received collectively over the period of time.

First and foremost to my mother for showering me with affection, faith in me and inspiration and strength. Father for showing me that love does not have to be loud and can be expressed in so many other ways.

I am fortunate for sister who remained protective of me and never tried to compete, compare or claim more of my parents, Infact I had habit of finding space between my mother and sister!

I am lucky all my cousins for making my babyhood pampered and giving me this name.

I have previledged in company of my neighbours from pre school to my daughter's school days for giving me effortless feelgood and casual company

I am thankful to Manchester group for giving me weekly dose of Indian culture, taught me how to party and providing inspiration for funfilled holidays.

I am thanking Bangalore group - family and friends for welcoming me and helping me settle here. This is one place where I landed empty handed and have never put any effort to bring fun or comfort to anyone and yet they helped me every time I needed them.

God Grant me chances to do something for everyone who brought comfort -care - company and support.

I might end my prolonged holiday in India once more. Did I accomplish anything I envisaged when landed? Not a single! But I received in abundance from unexpected places. Ahmedabad or not India remains my warm embracing mother land and will make me come again and again.

Dhimahi

Everything I came across as I pass through various situation has just come to me. I have pretty much moved like a river- rolling-stone. Nothing I have learnt was planned or I set out to seek. What I have allowed though is ruthless honesty about how I felt on particular day, situation or inevitable moments without any pretense. I was never afraid of showing vulnerability in front of my maid and got spontaneous hugs, I allowed tears to roll out silently when beauticians came and they offered me more than superficial facials. People are there with lots of ideas and remedies to sort you out without knowing whats bothering you and they believe with conviction in their methods and reassure you with full faith that if tried it will bring results.

Last year, same time I expressed to my yoga instructor that doing just physical yogaasnaa is not helping me. I feel emptiness in me and the black cloud hovering over me. It has no face or feet. I cant hold this cloud by the feet and smash it on floor. I cant define it as I cant recognize its face. But it keeps slapping me left, right and centre. Everything I dream gets shattered, everything I desired gets snatched, Everything I love bounces as hostility. I cant cook, if I summon strength to cook I cant eat! Staying in does not comfort me, going out does not bring relief. What to do? what to do? I feel helpless, weak in me for myself and my loved ones.

This young chap, a fresher from residential yoga school makes me sit and shares words of wisdom. He tells me to try excercising simple Havan at home.

Havan??? I dont know how to do it? I have never done it. I am not sure how much to believe if it works?

I must admit, I am not a daily-puja and bhajan type person, though accept the supreme power that is beyond me guides me. I do feel spiritual most times though. He tells me the essence of doing Homa. It purifies the atmosphere by releasing photons brings positvity in the air. Even if we feel troubled or confused, it keeps that pleasant aura in your living space. He says just keep small copper koond and do it the way it comes to you. 11 times, 51 times, 108 times and chant anything mantra/ thought or prayer that suits you.

Oh now this reminds me, my mother's great grandfather used to keep firey coal next to his dinner plate and drop few grains before starting meals. Its a gesture of gratitude to nature and provider, isn't it? I guess when living was not so structured, Rishis must be throwing 10% of what they have available for consumption back in soil so it brings new sustainable cycle of growth for grains, fruits and vegetables for us to consume again in next season!! The idea is to give back positivity in universe and it keeps changing its form and comes back to you again to nourish you.

Well, life is a laboratory and let me try the atomic changes by this DIY yugna. I got my havan kit with small copper bowl from local market, now a days lot of varieties available including painted ceramic electric ones. I do it for 2 months every dusk time and left it, I leave that place and instructor who introduced this to me. Even in my new place I have not performed any house warming puja yet. Though once again I come across chance to start where I left my Havan experience. This time with group of intellectually sound ladies.

They have joined in this no-frills, no-priest of doing environmentally friendly havan. Every month they gather, and ladies only perform havan on Gayatri and sit in its vibrations for 7 minutes. When so many chant together your own voice disappears gets merged with other reverberating sounds. you feel oneness in mass. The activity is defined as Dhimahi. The broader meaning is 'empower me to behold your gift', 'make me deserving'. One explanation is that by doing havan, all the energy gets coverted in vapour/ air particles and gets consumed back again in our system by breaths. And operator of our life and organs who is sitting inside gets his share. That is also broadly speaking giving back to universe. We and the universe are made of five elements only and fire is one of the most powerful of all. By this gesture you invoke supreme fire power of Sun. Its giver of light, creator of universe, enlightenment, direction, remover of darkness, sorrow and pain and bestower of happiness. When you chant mantra you internalize its effect but when you do havan it affects the atmosphere in part and when its multiplied by number of people doing together it send out vibrations far and wide for fallow living beings get benefit from.

This reminds me of the all the books written on mind power. Abraham Hicks and many others have written about power of positive thoughts. Reiki tells about power of positive thoughts and what you throw in universe comes back to you, Scientific prayers talk about wording your prayer lines with only positives. Secret and the power two best seller talk only about positive thoughts, Robin sharma talks about positive thoughts. NLP talk about positive affirmations. If you send out fears in universe, you will get scary encounters. regardless of what happens keep sending positivity out in openness.

This is on same concept of havan, isn't it? Havan of thoughts, Havan of words and gestures in your surrounding attracts positivity to you. Tuning in to frequency that brings beauty, joy and love. One lady made beautiful booklet on their patented style of Dhimahi. And it was inaugerated in style by others in the group.

Immediate effect? well I went back to my last blog and took out negative observations and lines. Humans are just humans without bondage of talents, religions and achievements when they help you in difficult times.

This Dhimahi group has rota. Every month they create this vibrations in different homes and will come to us for celebration of special day. My turn has yet to come. Life is beautiful already but I am being greedy! want something even more beautiful to knock at my door before I host!! Selfish girl!, eh?


Experimenting with myself continues...
rediscovering myself continues..
Understanding my own ancestors continues..
Learning continues as long there is life...

i-wise

Oh No No. Don't misunderstand the title. I am not talking about me being wise, I am not even talking about new version from apple after ipod, ipad.

This was my class of ladies seeking inner wisdom...

This month they focused on eyes. In upanishads there one whole chapter/book on Chakshopanishad. What would our eyes be without the jyoti inside? Who is the revered care taker of this vision inside this organ? Sun God, ofcourse. we invoke this energy of sun by chanting 9 times (in case Sun is too busy to hear the first time if he himself busy with his ipod) to establish power of vision in my eyes, to protect me, to cure me and reveal sun'd golden fiery energy inside my both eyes.

Getting list of care for my eyes...

every morning mouth full of water and continue baloon in and out cheeks (this is not to cleanse the mouth but for eye mustle and ducts). while you do that sprinckle water over both eyes.

soak trifalaa and keep filtered water in the fridge just like other juices and dip eyes in eyecup filled with this and blink.

everytime eyes feel tired dip cotton in rose water and give it relaxation.

avoid wearing rubber slippers

walk in morning grass covered with dew drops for few min.

rub your palms in between use of tv/ computer and cover your closed eyes with warmth of palms and imagine complete black and then either greens or blues.

and last but effective one is scalp massage.

In yog sat karma, 6 cleansing techniques are recommended, Trataka is one of those six. We did in 2 ways. first, Jatru tratak where you follow eyes to tip of the thumb from middle to sides. and Secondly, Jyoti Tratak, where you do candle gazing in steps, effortless gazing, intese dharanaa, defocussing or expansion gazing, and silence to take it all in. Let the water drip out of those duct, its great at physical level for cleansing. At higher level it opens gates for third eye or your intuitive abilities.

other benefits of trataka are.. improves stamina of eyes, makes eyes clear and radient, cleanses tear gland, refraction gets corrected, nervous system gets balanced and helps in insomnia, anxiety and depression.

Dont practice is u are stressed, headache or brain illness or glycoma etc.

Lot of people coming forward with how this helped them with after 40 blurry vision, strong numbers etc. Mantra is generally practiced first thing in the morning just before sun rises while sky is changing.

Hmmm, teacher ji, will this allow me read menu in restaurant and my sms without those glasses, please? Can I figure out what my child is texting away while gazing at my face?! This young generation is really master at multi tasking, they stare at you ans rest of the body still while their fingers can type away scripture!

Road Trip

We headed southern tip last week,waited very long time for this moment...
To feel the heart of any place road trips are the best suited.

Rameshwarum via Madurei.

Start at dawn to reach Meenakshi Mandir just in time before it closes at 1:00 pm. This is the most colourful temple created for Parvathi. There are 64 images to illustrate all the 64 miracles performed by shiv. Though original temple that had reference in 7 th century notes, was competely destroyed and in 13 century built and brought back to the glory. Temple gates and towers are a bit like stadium. tiered seats for various deities, their vehicles with maximum seats at bottom and reducing the number as you reach the tip of the shikhar. You may sit and spend hours observing the each row, time permitting. But we are ready for lunch and enjoyed the best tamil lunch in local market restaurant. For tables without AC 50 ruppes and inside AC hall, you pay 70 ruppees, this concludes with digestive pan and 1 small banana. My highlight? Dazzling nose ring of idol that can be seen from so far.

On the road to Rameishwarum. Final approach road reminds of the road heading towards key west, FL, only its not commercialized. you see organic fishing boat settlemets, picturesque. Ocean is so blue, clean and serene here. This place is only for Pilgrimage, so small souvenior shops, hotels and food joints situated on road leading to the temple. Most hotels are like walk-in and out from hotel to temple gates barefoot. Its is one of the Shiva's jyotirlingum. But the story kept on confusing me whether its Rama's temple or Shiva's! Temple illustrations reminds you about Sita-Rama's coming back from Lanka. Humble Rama wanted purify his act of destroying Egoistic and arrogant Ravan for he was also devout shiv bhakta and high achieving king in his own right! Upon arriving back to Indian shores after his victory, he decides to do puja for his action of choosing the war and not peace. Now where to find Shiv-ling from? So hasty sitamata makes ling from seaside sand (this is the main jyotirling) without waiting for Hanumanji on route to kailash to bring crystal ling for puja! (She was in a hurry to get it over with and reach home, perhapes!) When Hanuman ji returns with not one but 2 shivlings, he goes in a twist for making monkey do 'dog's work' and then not using it. Rama comes to pacify them both. asks Hanumaji to move the ling made by sita ji, (he could not) and then placing 2 of the others he got from Himalaya on the either sides. Wait! not 3, there are 108 other shivalinga and you may chant Aum Shivay Numuh in high energy corridors with each passing lingum.

What was our highlight?

22 shower of spring well from the compound. I was advised not to miss this chance and I was wondering dipping in merky water pool with my sweaty cloths after the travel and masking my smell by others' dirt! But no. It ended up being the overwhelming experience. An appointed guide takes us first to take plunge in ocean, good idea to remove the travel dirt first! Then we are wisked through one after the other well. The guide tells story as he pulls the medium size bucket out of the well and pours over us. Before performing the puja, Rama had to cleanse himself after war so using arrow he dug up these wells. Each well is associated symbolizes different source. To amazement water from each well also taste different.

Kanya-Kumari.

We then drive to southern most tip. As I went to primary school and learning Map and geography of India, I knew only that its point where all three oceans meet and you see 3 distinctly different colors. And Swami Vivekanand swam to the rock few yards away from the shore to meditate. Its is true but what I found is not what I envisaged!!

I admire western countries for restricting imposing structures around national heritage site such as big M of mcDonald has to drop that yellow arch in 'listed places'.

Giving it miss to sunset darshan at the point, we head to Kerala. Hindside I regret not staying there a night for sunset and rise. May be next time.

Kerala Back waters.

Entire terrain from Kanyakumari into Kerala is beautiful firey red color earth. All the mud walking trails in the woods are red carpet rolled out for wildlife!! We arrive very late at our resort 'coconut lagoon'. This is accessible only by boat. Even at that time the feel of the nature under near holi full moon I know I am in for a treat for my eyes and soul and eagerly waiting to wake up to take it all in the next day.

Take a deep breath! never seen such a beautiful place straight out of paradise! Without going in the waters you feel the contentment and 'Bhinaash' in you.

Its amazing how respectfully Indians treat water-bodies as source of 'giving element'.

Even in Rameshwarum taking samudra snan, is only as mark of respect. Generally people dont get in their 2 pieces no soosner they see sun, sand and sea in contrast to what we find normally in any resort promoted by westerners. We dont see ocean as something to be consumed for pleasure, its to be worshipped, it deserves respect for its depth and powers.

Back to back-waters...

Resort is around network of water allies created by the lake Vambanrd. This lake is massive and so serene. Half the years the flowing rivers pours fresh water in the lake and other half of the year arabian sea comes in with salty water. its hardly 10 metres deep max. we took sunset cruise and bird watching cruise. After many years I saw so many beautiful variety of birds in wilderness. There are bird watching excursions and they supplied binoculars. (I wonder why I have not invested in high tech binocular so far?!, it is must ). some birds can stay for more than 15 minutes under waters trying to catch the fish. Kerala living is inherently organic. The boats are made from tree products, even palatial house boats are also made from nature produce. Lucky boats! to make their black colour shiny and water proof, in addition to fish oil, they are also rubbed with cashew oil!! I should not feel guilty poring almond oil on my face then?! (as they say in Loreal advert, I' I am worth it'). We took a boat ride in water gullies and stopped to get eye-full of rice peddy field. acres of land covered with rice planatation. on the sides of the water allies, vibrantly colourful row of houses each complete with one coconut, mango and banana tree and a boat that can glide with pushing the pole. That sight is so theraputic to see fisherman gliding over the waters without a single sound or causing lot of ripples. How beautiful is that? seamlessly being part of nature without making your presence felt. May be thats way so many birds bloom and blossom here.

The resort offered talks on ayurveda and treatment if pocket permits. definition of colour green has changed in my mind. Fresh, silky, moist greens you find everwhere. Resort had so many spice plants from almond, cashew, parijat, cinnemon etc. My cottage had canopy of mango trees laden with fresh mangos of the seasons at plucking heights. The coconut trees had atleat one hollow coconut stuffed with charcoal tied to it with orchid plants. That look so decorative. apparantly orchids are cultivated very successfully like this.

Bathrooms were like open varandaa. Reminded me of my grandma's home with courtyard in Gondal. How fortunate they were! not to be surrounded by highrise building and can bathe under natural sun-light and breeze.

Took couple of dips in the pool. In general, whether Rameshwarum, Kanya-kumari or back waters, the waters of Indian ocean is the best temperature wise. you feel gentle masaage with warm water. Luxury for locals! India is blessed. Cant think of taking plunge in atlantic or pacific without at least first few breaths away with chill.

And what do I say about people, small built,so soft spoken and eternally smiling. From Silk I have entered soft kairali cotton zone. All ladies and gents of all background and age wear gold rim white muslin ever so gracefully. Recollecting my first moment as I landed at Dilli airport few weeks back only. Surrounded by WHSmith and other global chains I hear over hear the words ' mere ko kya paagul kootte ne kataa hai kya?!' from one of those posh looking shops. But on flipside of this quality has made northerns resilient in the city endlessly under foreign rule, religion and invasion.

Taking to road to reach

Guruvayur

Wow on way I see rivers, ponds, puddles covered with many shades of water lilies. No wonder they call this state 'God's own'. We reach Guruvayur temple in the late evening. The special aarti performed by elephants.

Oh what a sight!! Temple mast, the doorway frame glittering with pure Gold. Its open plan kerala distict temple architecture. on one side number of elephants have their 'sits'. At Aarti time they are adorned with gold ornaments. Straight after bath, young brahmin boys come to these elephants, four boys per elephant. Elephant beautifully, graefully, playfully helps them all climb on board for savaari. these boys hold peacock fans, chaamar and umbrella for the image of the lord Krishna. (there is lot of history and story of how this image was brought from dwarika ) Once they do Pradakshina's 3 rounds with deity himself and then 3 rounds with special image. All inside the temple premises.

You can tell its Krsna temple by the mood of the street. so cheerful, colourful and playful. After all Lord Krsna is symbol of sundarta, madhurta, chaturta, romance, fun and games. Temple rule allows man only in kerali style 2 piece dhoti and women in either sari or slawar. Keyur in white dhoti with gold rim and kamya in pitaamber lose kurta looked very good.

On Mandir approach road there are plenty of aushadh-shala. 'O I want to have this and I want that'. I have fascination for fabric, stationary and now jadi-butii fresh from forest!! They had answer to all ailments.

Back toward home, driving through mountain range. Not an inch is without dense vegetation. deep in vally i see coconut grooves and no habitat / settelment seen near by! deers come in way as speed breakers. there is this herbal fresh fragrance in the air.

Back to bangalore.

closing my eyes and what do i conjure up in mind after so many images? water lilies and plenty of waters. Attached image is Monet's impression of lotus pond. I wonder from where he got inspiration?!
till next time....

su-joking

Remembering times when my mother used to rub hot hing paste on my stomach to get rid of access gas rumbling in my tummy as a kid, or applying fatacadi on mouth ulsers, or jethimadh for my voice (that one herb was defeated in my case!!), or rubbing grated onion to reduce sunstroke.

Nature has everything we need to keep the whole system in balance considering we are merely one bundle of energy like other living beings. If not cure, we can find everything for prevention of dis-ease from nature itself and minor changes in life style.

Mighty oak grows from tiny acorn. Seeds are full of energy. Each seed has its own specific kind of energy. When seeds are embedded in soil, its energy comes out in form of sprout. When seeds are attached to body it transfers its energy into body. To prove the point further, if you try to plant the same seed after sujok treatment, it will never sprout. Going even further, its accepted by ayurveda that each seed comes with its property, but sujok says even shapes of these seeds used for treatment are similar to organ in the body its suited to treat. Also in addition to transfering energy these seeds double as accupressure on reflected organs.

This was researched for 30 years from 53-83 by a korean doctor and his paper he finally published in medical body to be accepted as an alternative therapy. He is alive and heals people.

Its very easy to find ouch point in own palm for condition suffered. Simple techniques to either clockwise probing on 'ouch' point on palm to increase or anti-clock to decrease the access supply. break those clots in the palm and tie seed and press intermittently for 2 hours or so. generally un-easiness goes within 3 to 5 minutes. For cough, cold, runny nose use of black pepper is very effective, Digestion related treatments, to ease the spine-methi, treat lever with grape seeds, low/high bp with 7 energy points and many more complains like period pain, migraine, headache. for skin disorders clearing the kidney etc.

for stress, anxiety, also its used.
Not joking!!

Khajurotica

Lets talk about Taj. Who put the name for symbol of love and national symbol for love as Taj mahal on world tourist map? I am sure Taj has unparallel beauty (I have yet to visit this place as an adult) but to me its only one man's display of affection for his wife. Lot of men love their wives even more but have not enough resources to buy even designer bag!. If I understand correctly, the designer who came with most impressive plan for Taj mahal, had his hands chopped off from his wrist so that he cant produce similar looking monument ever again!! I am not even going to mention the word 'Tejo Mahalaya'.

In contrast, story of Khajuraho starts in 9 th century. They built not 1 but 85 most beautiful temples, only 25 remains today. Trains arrives at quiet little railway station. There is nothing other than station around. and plenty of quiet little hotels all the way to town. Roadsides are sporadically covered with real settlements rather than slums. We have lot to thank Britishers for rediscovering national heritages. Ibn Batuta also mentioned in his travelogue about mutilated temples statues in Kajarra. Even today its sanctity felt in the air.

Temples wonderful product of Precise mathematical work, art work, sculpture, construction. without the guide you cant really understand the full glory. After every victory the kings of Chandella dynasty came to this place of their ancestors and build one temple everytime as thanks giving to God and civilians. Everytime these spiritually enlightened Kings generously gave gifts to artists for their hardwork, workmanship, skills and devotion.

One theory also suggest that during the times of Budhha and Mahavir Swami, people started to give up worldly pursuit. So to bring the social balance in order these temples were built. Whatever the reason, they celebrate all four aspect of life on earth. Dharma, Arth, Kaam and Moksha.

All 3 raws use differnt stone colours to classify the category, yellow, sand, red. The lowest generally depicts wild creature with 2 human bodies. one riding on animal to show that creature represents wild mind and one who rides on top is timid person getting caried away with mind. one slightly bigger figure struggles with creature showing your spiritual self trying to tame the mind-best of ours.

second raw, showing daily activities, life is celebration, dress up, wear ornaments, play with ball and other games, do yogasana like lom anuloma and power yoga! All the tiny statues next to standard size represent servant, assistant etc. Latest Gucci bag designs are seen in hands of this assistants. Proportions of all statues are so precise and beautiful. There was true feminism, ladies being worriers, going to vidyalaya with boys giving guradakshina and wearing 20 types of hairstyles!! Group shows artist, musicians, hunters

And then there always Divine couples like shiv-parvati, vishnu-lakshmi, ram-sita-hanumanji etc.
Carving and stone used is so similar that across 3 centuries they gradually built these shrines yet they appear to be from one sandalwood by same designer!

And of course the statues celebrating marital bliss. One must pay pilgrimage to this place celebrating love of entire humanity.
Best and most touching was the light and sound show at night. Amitabh Bachan narrates spirit of shilpi from lost era. When we think of kingdoms we only think of ayaashi of kings during late mughul and british times but this reminds you of how people lived on this land before foreign rule changed the spirit of liberal, intelligent, artistic, scientific and versatile society.

Like any other ruins more foreigners on bikes to see dotted temples in few kilometres. Though locals celebrate shivratri and festivals. Young and old all come for darshan ( Its not a functioning shrine ) and Guides also show with lot of respect and SAHAJ devotion.

Net morning we visit Panna forest. It is trully unspoilt nature reserve. If you are lucky you can see tiger but I was spared. One coccasian lady who was on mountain top kept on doing namaste namaste to all visitors. Apparantly she has built a school and come twice yearly to this mystical place. Married or not one must visit at least once this place.

On way to Pandav fall... this is were pandava stayed in agyat vaas while in exile. extremely tranquil place.
everyplace is looked after by MP tourism. with guides everywhere.

Abhi aur Kahaa train mein chale?? Trains are so much fun, takka tak, takka tak. Romanchuk ride across India.