It is Indeed Himalayan task to attempt to write about Himalaya.
I am still making note of very little glimpse I had of this amazing landscape for my own sake.
After visiting places in Hrishikesh we join the masses for evening Aarti of Gangaa ji in Haridwar. We Indian love to waste water on one hand. we never settle for tissue for any cleaning and poor water pipes and leakages but we know that Water is life. Our body and our earth is 75% water and we respect that. People simply sit on steps and watch river flow. All the bells are ringing and massive Diya arrangement reflect in water as pujari pray river. we also get our bowl made from leaf with lots of flowers and lamp. with help of people already standing in waters we let it float to ocean. Gangaa ji, I am letting all my clutter go with flowers. Purify me and Grant refreshing start in clutter-free life.
From 9 in the morning that I started from Hrishikesh till 5 in the evening reaching Guarikund, I was trying to chase river Ganga in opposite direction non-stop and still its origin not in site. Eventually I spend night in Gaurikund.
First, verse that comes to my heart is 'Aum (eternity), Bhu (this land), Swah (up above/Higher self/divine) and Bhuva (everything in between this and that). No where on earth you find everything rolled in one frame. River that flows on ground, cloud that float in sky/heaven and everything in between that invokes your spiritual side. Hyper ness of any kind simply melts. Every breath brings cocktail of herb infused aroma in your system, everywhere I look there is water and more water pouring out from all directions.
Gauri (name of Parvati and Kund meaning water tank ). As the legend associated with this place goes....
Once Lord Shiva (Parvati's husband) goes away from home for his wordly duty of ridding this world of clutter and returns after long time. In his absence Parvathi gives birth to Lord Ganesh and in absence of her husband she indulges in long spa rituals in hot springs having so much time at her hand. One day Shiva returns to find toddler playing in his courtyard and refuses entry in their living quarters as his mother is busy bathing. Furious Shiva not recognizing his own son chops of his head. Upon realizing his mistakes when horrified Parvati explains he sticks elephant head to his son's body. This is the only place and his birth place where Lord Ganesh has image with his original face.
So we plunge in this same age old hot pool for early morning bath before remembering all my relatives during puja. and on board the horse. 4 hours ride each way we reach Kedarnath temple. Along the way we hardly exchange single sound, we are soaking in breathtaking view all around us. This temple has Shivling with integrated Parvati and Ganesh in. Temple has been build by Pandav and around main temple there are 7 Murti of Pandav plus their mother Kunti and her nephew Lord Krishna and ofcourse Parvathi and Nandi (shiva;s vehicle). Pujari asks me to take in the beauty of Goddess and whisper in Nandi's ear anything I want. Looking at Goddess something spontaneous happened, tears started to flow. (I would name it Bhaav-(emotion rich) Gangaa). I was not prepared for this boon so I did not have anything particular to ask. And I also feel if there is really Mother Goddess looking after me than I am sure she knows what would be best for me. Outside temple there are hill walks to see 2 different reservoir and one source known as Madhu (nector/ honey) Gangaa or Dudh (milk) gangaa flows in to Mandakini river. Mandakini river from merging 5 main streams each with relevant names. Flows toward what becomes Gangaa when meets other sources. Pujari brings Brahm-kamal a flower that grows out of rocks on high altitude. and we are back on backs of our horses. Guest house in Gaurikund is basic with a window with a view. Through out the night the rumbling sound of river flowing over my head. Whatever the reason the eyes open long before dusk in Himalaya. We say bye to Kedarnath, an ancient place where 3000 years BC worshipping has been passed on through Dwaper yug. As story goes about creation of life on earth. They had to bring rivers on earth but such massive water body as Gangaa ji would have destroyed life if flooded so Shiv ji held her and from Panch Kedar ( 5 diff. places of shiv ji) she was released little by little so humanity thrives. Story further describes how Sat-yug Rishi saw images of Shiva's head, shoulders, torso before allowing Gangaa ji to flow in moderation.
Now we are on way to Badrinath. From the time of Skunda -puarana, recommended route from Kedar Nath to Badri nath is through Ookhi muth and Tung nath. This beauty of the forest can not be described in words. Roads are without any roadside support and often they get blocks due to rock falls and fallen trees for days. My driver decides to drive through this only. Clouds and rivers are holding hands and touching each other. Variety of vegetation. patches of forest, mountain farming etc. and dripping leaves on roadside rocks and cliffs.... paradise for sure.
We reach Badri nath before dusk following Alaknanda to its mouth (another major source in Gangaa) Alaknanada is made from main nine major streams. We did evening Aarti and next morning went to Manna village the last on Indian-Tibet border. There are 2 cave/temples to visit. Vedvyas and Ganesh. Higher cave is where After recieveing orders from Brahma ji that his creation on earth would need some manual to handle life and its problems and complication, Ved Vyas wrote 4 volumes of veda and MahaBharat and finally ending with Bhagavat. He decteted everything to Ganesh. During dectetion vivacious river saraswati making too much noise generates anger in him while he is doing such mammoth task of authoring scriptures!! so he cuses her to go under ground for miles. Today where Alak nanda meets Sararwati and then its disappears and appears all the way near Allahbad. We take a guide to walk up to Vasundhara fall more than 5 km walk. There nothing that compares with being in lap of mountain. I feel the mist bubbles bursting on my cheeks. They say if you are sinner the water from the fall will not sprinkle on you. Thankfully I wash my face there.
The guide shows where 15 days track will allow me to walk on the same path where pandavaa's dropped their bodies and went to heaven. when found grieving uncle dhritarastra left hastinapur in himalaya with vidur, Yudhisthir being righteous man leaves kingdom in hands of Parikshit and walks up in Himalaya. one by one they all die each has interesting question and situation attached to it and finally being so truthful Yudhisthir walks in heaven with his own body.
Next morning we decide to be part of First morning prayer at 4 am. The statue of Lord Krshna here is Swayambhu (something that is found and not carved by anyone). It is in the form of yogi purush, his full form. Priest describes absolutely everything. and they remove previous days coat of sandalwood and saffron covering the black stone statue. one by one they adorn the idol with garlands of tulsi and flowers and silk fabric. In between there is chanting from accompanying devotees temple trust. They ask us all to mention our Gotra. Original Rishi's lineage from where we come. Being part of such age old tradition was amazing especially when I myself dont do any ritual at home. Here also we sprinkle water from adjacent hot-pool. In fact its so so hot I had to stir the water before sprinkling few drops.
On way we wiz pass Govind ghaat a gateway to Valley of Flower but last minute I felt jittery about managing in 2 days so Himalaya, I am coming back with my Shiva.
Through out five days Gangaa ji was continuously flowing on side of my path. so much of water I have never seen before. Where ever I looked in the mountain the drizzling water coming out from rocks, woods. Taste of water at some places is mettalic. so much mineral rich water coming out from rocks. No wonder India is where Ayurveda established itself. Medicinal vegetation all over spontaneously growing. One I want to mention is curry leaves - tree. Its everywhere coming out from rocks. Makes me re-think about value of curry leaves. Naturopath say Add Tulsi, Mint- curry leaves and roasted whole chana with skin when you want to go on diet but would want to add nutrient to strenthen the body. They say paste from curry leaves gives mettaic glow to your hair. This plant feeds itself on mineral rich rocks and such water terrain no wonder its so good for us.
All the way from Haridwar, I see saffron colored Kawadia (person who hangs 2 pots on both shoulders and walk to pilgrimage ) to Delhi on plains and Neel kunth 9one of the peaks in Himalaya) some without footwear when blisters hurt touch of uncomforting bad designed foot wear. some roads were made only pedestrian zones. Each Kawad has diff. designs and all the way there were parking for their kawad when they rest at night.
On way also I see non-stop saffron color sikh bikers going to hemkund and govind ghaat.
On way We stop at Dilli. Kids take me for Chaat Hopping, trying various sweets including Paan pethaa. we take ride in bicycle rickshaw and enjoy light and sound show at Puarana-killa. the language of narration was hard to digest. very sweet though. made from 6 diff. dialects including avadhi, bhojapuri, urdu etc etc.
Himalaya, I just got to see you, I am coming back for more...
though positive about my fortune and freedom and previledges, as I started horse ride in Kedarnath my heart fills with regret I feel gutted not thinking about this trip earlier for my mother when she was stronger. I felt so good for making these foreign trips for parent when I lived abraod. It was mainly for my own needs. I would say to my NRI friends instead of making them do long haul journeys sponsor their trips to this divine place before they lose health to handle even comforting car journeys with fragile bones and weak lungs. That is if you cant take them yourself.
Om Bhur Bhuva Swah....
I found beautiful ground beneath me, I could touch the clouds, I could see everything between the two and feel Aum in my heart. This is special place resonating divinty.
