Are we not facinated by ancient Egyptian pyramids and Greek Mosiac, and how many times we have heard praises of stone henge and machu pichu? Even since I came here I wanted to visit this place. Most foreigners account says that they found this place more enchanting than pyramids. However, In India people prefer go for functioning shrine than ruins, it could be also because brocken images are deiti are not pujya. And also India is happening place, people's eyes lit up when there is scope of prasaad and blessings. I asked around but not many takers of my offer finally this sunday morning I thought...
'Thats it, no more waiting, planning or wishful thinking!' I call rent-A-car. and declared to my loyal companion, 'We are going on road trip. Get ready in 2 hours'. To my delight the words I hear with a smile 'Mummy, I respect your wish'. looks like sankranthi sets smooth time rolling!!
We are aboard Xylo. First few hours we go past groooves after groves of coconut. So many shapes and colours and sizes with changing species of this wonderful icotonic fruit. There are tempting vendors on the road selling coconut products but we give it miss. Then there is patch of plains and we reach Chitradurg. Chiradurg is surrounded by windmill farms on the hills. It is also developing hotspot as I gather with some IT companies wanting to invest here inspite of scarce water. Anyway, our driver says its very good historic fort and we could take a break.
So we are now climbing the fort with a guide. Its called Chitradurg because this rocky mountains have many rocks resembling animals; rabbit, elephant, frog, turtle. they spent 200 years to slowly build this 7 layer fort. Its done in snakeshape so every entry is faced with wall so canon attacks will only hit the wall and not the actual gates. my guide tell me 3 times Haider ali attcked this fort and 'third time thoda lufda ho gaya'. I asked 'Lufda meaning what? he successfully captured or not?' No he could not capture, one braveheart lady Onamma did some clever move and kingdom remained with Raja. Actual palace is made of clay only to prove 'appearance can be deceptive'. no invader will pay attantion to mud huts. There is mountain climer who climbs walls and rocks with empty hands only. All he has in his pouch is choona powder.
OK, back to road...
at night we reach Hospet, nearest stop to hampi. Stay in 'International Hotel'. It costs me 700 ruppes for the twin room with lounge and big bathroom with ac and room service. on motorway I spend about 150 rupees for 2 meals in Kamat ( motorway chain restaurants). So one night is sorted in just over 1000 ruppess! not bad eh?! Had I reached earlier, could have seen light and sound show at Toongbhadra dam. But never mind...
So we wake up comfortably and reach humpi. I really did not know what to expect. I have little knowledge of Raja krishnadev raya other than the fact that He had very witty advisor in his court called Tenali rama and just like birbal his sories are read in chitrakatha. Coincidentally like Akbar was appreciative of Hindu talents and had many gems in his court, Raja Krishnadev raya also was inclusive of persian talents, he also welcomed chinese and portugese traders. We are talking about 16 century here.
But my sight seeing tour starts with Virupaksha temple of shiva. There is Swaymbhu sivlingum. This is the place where Sri Rama worshiped lord shiva before setting off to Lanka. There is also pinhole camera technique used in those days so see the reverse image of shikhar inside the garbhgrih. Surrounding this shrine is rocky mountains called Matang parvat, rushi parvat and others. All five pravat mentioned in ramayan are standing here. Our guide shows Kishkindha paravat where Anjaneya swami (hanumanji) was born. Infact Humpi is ancient Kishkindha. Both the parvat where vali and sugreev individually lived are also standing tall. Many kilometres of this rocky greenland is dotted with historic sites. Pumpa sarovar and place where shabri offered Lord rama her berries are also here. Place where Rama and RamaDuta Hanumaji exchange chudamani and ring when he sets off to see sita ji in Lanka. Government has now gained 300 acres more for excavation of this rich orcheological site and proposed for 400 acre more.
So Sri Rama did not have such bad and scary place to live when in Arnayavaas!!
'O King Dashratha, Have positive perception na! why say that your might and righteous son was victim of timid manthra's manipulation? just say that he was pampered son of weathy man and after schooling needed bit of expedition for well rounded develeopement.' In 21 century you would be seen as role model for parents and your son as ideal leader for setting trends for trekking, river rafting and what not for youth of our generation who need to stay in jungle without towers away from ipod and internet for grounding!
It is really a garden fit for gods and kings and prince. No scary animals, lots of vegetation of banana and coconut and surrounded by massive pictursque sheela (Sheela??? guys its not THAT rocking sheela you have been singing about!! It is a big Hard Rock (not again! not THAT hard rock, its simply big BOULDER)
Raja Krishnadev raya 's dynasty happened to rule here and there is temple of parvathi called hampamma. so like Britishers nickname chatherine cathy and elizabeth as becky when they cant co op with big names they turned humpaama into humpi as loving address to parvathi, I guess!! I must say that britishers are very appreciative of our heritage and they have tried to restore some crumbling roofs by iron beams. Yes, in those days they use iron beams as answers to many of their needs.
So Raja had miles long bazzar where they traded diamond, silver, spices, silk, flowers, fruits and gold. VIP traders from china, persia and portugal were welcomes in dharmshala inside courtyards. There is music mandap where big columns are surrounded by small ones in certain scientic way. when tapped with wooden sticks they replicate the sound of instruments. Percusion, drom, damaroo, mrudungum etc. There are some very clever specimen of shilpkala. One carving depicted 6 animals in one from different angle and still it did look complete. there are lady soldiers who look after queens and fight as warriers in pictures, there are impressive water management system, no water tank is complate without the tank to mix up water with colours for holi. There are rest area for queen where continuous water sprinklers are in action to keep her cool.
The stone ruins are there but glorious wooden carved palaces are burnt by bahami invedors. I just dont get it. I understand the hunger for power, authority and possesing others belonging but I cant fathom the need for these invedors to destroy such beautiful work of arts. On one hand islamic invedors have promoted garden landscaping and architectural wonders then why did they ruined this heritage?!
so now this empire that covered Oriya to Maharastra entire lower trinangle of Indian mainland is frozen in time. It took us back in different time. coincidentally sikri was ruined around the same time and never came back to life that way.
No trip is complete without its share of rough ride. we got more thrill than bargained for. From Chitradurg the road gives pleasure of sailing in the boat in choppy seas or water rafting. The pot holes are so huge that you feel you are riding on river bed. SUV s would shy away from going there. More than one hour of bumpi-jumpi ride. But to distract post monsoon landscape is so pretty and clear skies. Kya Kahene! See we drive in dense fog and feel we are in english channel, we drive in snow storm,, huurcane and terrential rain. India as to find its share of driving sensation where skies are always suppotive. As for the vehicles, trucks are intimidating especially at night. Some have zero bulb for headlights, some throw beams and some have elaborate dancing festive roshni to keep them and other road users awake. hazard triagles we use for emergency breakdown are permanent feature on some trucks to be doubly sure that if their lights fails, other vehicle will still see them with reflecting triagle. 'National Permit' certificate is painting in so many colourful way and description of break system has 100 ways to spell 'Break'!!
On way back we see farmers seperating crop on the road. I ask my driver why on roadside or on the road? He goes 'madam, aur koi jagah nahi hai na!' 'What are you saying I see only fields after fields' May be they use road like steel plate to avoid grain going back to soil. endlessly this cow-carts and clusters of people seperating husk makes we want to pich mustard, ajmo and fresh jeera in my fist and bring home. Now I am never going to forget that Samkranthi is festival associated with harvest.
and journey will continue...
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