Khajurotica

Lets talk about Taj. Who put the name for symbol of love and national symbol for love as Taj mahal on world tourist map? I am sure Taj has unparallel beauty (I have yet to visit this place as an adult) but to me its only one man's display of affection for his wife. Lot of men love their wives even more but have not enough resources to buy even designer bag!. If I understand correctly, the designer who came with most impressive plan for Taj mahal, had his hands chopped off from his wrist so that he cant produce similar looking monument ever again!! I am not even going to mention the word 'Tejo Mahalaya'.

In contrast, story of Khajuraho starts in 9 th century. They built not 1 but 85 most beautiful temples, only 25 remains today. Trains arrives at quiet little railway station. There is nothing other than station around. and plenty of quiet little hotels all the way to town. Roadsides are sporadically covered with real settlements rather than slums. We have lot to thank Britishers for rediscovering national heritages. Ibn Batuta also mentioned in his travelogue about mutilated temples statues in Kajarra. Even today its sanctity felt in the air.

Temples wonderful product of Precise mathematical work, art work, sculpture, construction. without the guide you cant really understand the full glory. After every victory the kings of Chandella dynasty came to this place of their ancestors and build one temple everytime as thanks giving to God and civilians. Everytime these spiritually enlightened Kings generously gave gifts to artists for their hardwork, workmanship, skills and devotion.

One theory also suggest that during the times of Budhha and Mahavir Swami, people started to give up worldly pursuit. So to bring the social balance in order these temples were built. Whatever the reason, they celebrate all four aspect of life on earth. Dharma, Arth, Kaam and Moksha.

All 3 raws use differnt stone colours to classify the category, yellow, sand, red. The lowest generally depicts wild creature with 2 human bodies. one riding on animal to show that creature represents wild mind and one who rides on top is timid person getting caried away with mind. one slightly bigger figure struggles with creature showing your spiritual self trying to tame the mind-best of ours.

second raw, showing daily activities, life is celebration, dress up, wear ornaments, play with ball and other games, do yogasana like lom anuloma and power yoga! All the tiny statues next to standard size represent servant, assistant etc. Latest Gucci bag designs are seen in hands of this assistants. Proportions of all statues are so precise and beautiful. There was true feminism, ladies being worriers, going to vidyalaya with boys giving guradakshina and wearing 20 types of hairstyles!! Group shows artist, musicians, hunters

And then there always Divine couples like shiv-parvati, vishnu-lakshmi, ram-sita-hanumanji etc.
Carving and stone used is so similar that across 3 centuries they gradually built these shrines yet they appear to be from one sandalwood by same designer!

And of course the statues celebrating marital bliss. One must pay pilgrimage to this place celebrating love of entire humanity.
Best and most touching was the light and sound show at night. Amitabh Bachan narrates spirit of shilpi from lost era. When we think of kingdoms we only think of ayaashi of kings during late mughul and british times but this reminds you of how people lived on this land before foreign rule changed the spirit of liberal, intelligent, artistic, scientific and versatile society.

Like any other ruins more foreigners on bikes to see dotted temples in few kilometres. Though locals celebrate shivratri and festivals. Young and old all come for darshan ( Its not a functioning shrine ) and Guides also show with lot of respect and SAHAJ devotion.

Net morning we visit Panna forest. It is trully unspoilt nature reserve. If you are lucky you can see tiger but I was spared. One coccasian lady who was on mountain top kept on doing namaste namaste to all visitors. Apparantly she has built a school and come twice yearly to this mystical place. Married or not one must visit at least once this place.

On way to Pandav fall... this is were pandava stayed in agyat vaas while in exile. extremely tranquil place.
everyplace is looked after by MP tourism. with guides everywhere.

Abhi aur Kahaa train mein chale?? Trains are so much fun, takka tak, takka tak. Romanchuk ride across India.