Road Trip

We headed southern tip last week,waited very long time for this moment...
To feel the heart of any place road trips are the best suited.

Rameshwarum via Madurei.

Start at dawn to reach Meenakshi Mandir just in time before it closes at 1:00 pm. This is the most colourful temple created for Parvathi. There are 64 images to illustrate all the 64 miracles performed by shiv. Though original temple that had reference in 7 th century notes, was competely destroyed and in 13 century built and brought back to the glory. Temple gates and towers are a bit like stadium. tiered seats for various deities, their vehicles with maximum seats at bottom and reducing the number as you reach the tip of the shikhar. You may sit and spend hours observing the each row, time permitting. But we are ready for lunch and enjoyed the best tamil lunch in local market restaurant. For tables without AC 50 ruppes and inside AC hall, you pay 70 ruppees, this concludes with digestive pan and 1 small banana. My highlight? Dazzling nose ring of idol that can be seen from so far.

On the road to Rameishwarum. Final approach road reminds of the road heading towards key west, FL, only its not commercialized. you see organic fishing boat settlemets, picturesque. Ocean is so blue, clean and serene here. This place is only for Pilgrimage, so small souvenior shops, hotels and food joints situated on road leading to the temple. Most hotels are like walk-in and out from hotel to temple gates barefoot. Its is one of the Shiva's jyotirlingum. But the story kept on confusing me whether its Rama's temple or Shiva's! Temple illustrations reminds you about Sita-Rama's coming back from Lanka. Humble Rama wanted purify his act of destroying Egoistic and arrogant Ravan for he was also devout shiv bhakta and high achieving king in his own right! Upon arriving back to Indian shores after his victory, he decides to do puja for his action of choosing the war and not peace. Now where to find Shiv-ling from? So hasty sitamata makes ling from seaside sand (this is the main jyotirling) without waiting for Hanumanji on route to kailash to bring crystal ling for puja! (She was in a hurry to get it over with and reach home, perhapes!) When Hanuman ji returns with not one but 2 shivlings, he goes in a twist for making monkey do 'dog's work' and then not using it. Rama comes to pacify them both. asks Hanumaji to move the ling made by sita ji, (he could not) and then placing 2 of the others he got from Himalaya on the either sides. Wait! not 3, there are 108 other shivalinga and you may chant Aum Shivay Numuh in high energy corridors with each passing lingum.

What was our highlight?

22 shower of spring well from the compound. I was advised not to miss this chance and I was wondering dipping in merky water pool with my sweaty cloths after the travel and masking my smell by others' dirt! But no. It ended up being the overwhelming experience. An appointed guide takes us first to take plunge in ocean, good idea to remove the travel dirt first! Then we are wisked through one after the other well. The guide tells story as he pulls the medium size bucket out of the well and pours over us. Before performing the puja, Rama had to cleanse himself after war so using arrow he dug up these wells. Each well is associated symbolizes different source. To amazement water from each well also taste different.

Kanya-Kumari.

We then drive to southern most tip. As I went to primary school and learning Map and geography of India, I knew only that its point where all three oceans meet and you see 3 distinctly different colors. And Swami Vivekanand swam to the rock few yards away from the shore to meditate. Its is true but what I found is not what I envisaged!!

I admire western countries for restricting imposing structures around national heritage site such as big M of mcDonald has to drop that yellow arch in 'listed places'.

Giving it miss to sunset darshan at the point, we head to Kerala. Hindside I regret not staying there a night for sunset and rise. May be next time.

Kerala Back waters.

Entire terrain from Kanyakumari into Kerala is beautiful firey red color earth. All the mud walking trails in the woods are red carpet rolled out for wildlife!! We arrive very late at our resort 'coconut lagoon'. This is accessible only by boat. Even at that time the feel of the nature under near holi full moon I know I am in for a treat for my eyes and soul and eagerly waiting to wake up to take it all in the next day.

Take a deep breath! never seen such a beautiful place straight out of paradise! Without going in the waters you feel the contentment and 'Bhinaash' in you.

Its amazing how respectfully Indians treat water-bodies as source of 'giving element'.

Even in Rameshwarum taking samudra snan, is only as mark of respect. Generally people dont get in their 2 pieces no soosner they see sun, sand and sea in contrast to what we find normally in any resort promoted by westerners. We dont see ocean as something to be consumed for pleasure, its to be worshipped, it deserves respect for its depth and powers.

Back to back-waters...

Resort is around network of water allies created by the lake Vambanrd. This lake is massive and so serene. Half the years the flowing rivers pours fresh water in the lake and other half of the year arabian sea comes in with salty water. its hardly 10 metres deep max. we took sunset cruise and bird watching cruise. After many years I saw so many beautiful variety of birds in wilderness. There are bird watching excursions and they supplied binoculars. (I wonder why I have not invested in high tech binocular so far?!, it is must ). some birds can stay for more than 15 minutes under waters trying to catch the fish. Kerala living is inherently organic. The boats are made from tree products, even palatial house boats are also made from nature produce. Lucky boats! to make their black colour shiny and water proof, in addition to fish oil, they are also rubbed with cashew oil!! I should not feel guilty poring almond oil on my face then?! (as they say in Loreal advert, I' I am worth it'). We took a boat ride in water gullies and stopped to get eye-full of rice peddy field. acres of land covered with rice planatation. on the sides of the water allies, vibrantly colourful row of houses each complete with one coconut, mango and banana tree and a boat that can glide with pushing the pole. That sight is so theraputic to see fisherman gliding over the waters without a single sound or causing lot of ripples. How beautiful is that? seamlessly being part of nature without making your presence felt. May be thats way so many birds bloom and blossom here.

The resort offered talks on ayurveda and treatment if pocket permits. definition of colour green has changed in my mind. Fresh, silky, moist greens you find everwhere. Resort had so many spice plants from almond, cashew, parijat, cinnemon etc. My cottage had canopy of mango trees laden with fresh mangos of the seasons at plucking heights. The coconut trees had atleat one hollow coconut stuffed with charcoal tied to it with orchid plants. That look so decorative. apparantly orchids are cultivated very successfully like this.

Bathrooms were like open varandaa. Reminded me of my grandma's home with courtyard in Gondal. How fortunate they were! not to be surrounded by highrise building and can bathe under natural sun-light and breeze.

Took couple of dips in the pool. In general, whether Rameshwarum, Kanya-kumari or back waters, the waters of Indian ocean is the best temperature wise. you feel gentle masaage with warm water. Luxury for locals! India is blessed. Cant think of taking plunge in atlantic or pacific without at least first few breaths away with chill.

And what do I say about people, small built,so soft spoken and eternally smiling. From Silk I have entered soft kairali cotton zone. All ladies and gents of all background and age wear gold rim white muslin ever so gracefully. Recollecting my first moment as I landed at Dilli airport few weeks back only. Surrounded by WHSmith and other global chains I hear over hear the words ' mere ko kya paagul kootte ne kataa hai kya?!' from one of those posh looking shops. But on flipside of this quality has made northerns resilient in the city endlessly under foreign rule, religion and invasion.

Taking to road to reach

Guruvayur

Wow on way I see rivers, ponds, puddles covered with many shades of water lilies. No wonder they call this state 'God's own'. We reach Guruvayur temple in the late evening. The special aarti performed by elephants.

Oh what a sight!! Temple mast, the doorway frame glittering with pure Gold. Its open plan kerala distict temple architecture. on one side number of elephants have their 'sits'. At Aarti time they are adorned with gold ornaments. Straight after bath, young brahmin boys come to these elephants, four boys per elephant. Elephant beautifully, graefully, playfully helps them all climb on board for savaari. these boys hold peacock fans, chaamar and umbrella for the image of the lord Krishna. (there is lot of history and story of how this image was brought from dwarika ) Once they do Pradakshina's 3 rounds with deity himself and then 3 rounds with special image. All inside the temple premises.

You can tell its Krsna temple by the mood of the street. so cheerful, colourful and playful. After all Lord Krsna is symbol of sundarta, madhurta, chaturta, romance, fun and games. Temple rule allows man only in kerali style 2 piece dhoti and women in either sari or slawar. Keyur in white dhoti with gold rim and kamya in pitaamber lose kurta looked very good.

On Mandir approach road there are plenty of aushadh-shala. 'O I want to have this and I want that'. I have fascination for fabric, stationary and now jadi-butii fresh from forest!! They had answer to all ailments.

Back toward home, driving through mountain range. Not an inch is without dense vegetation. deep in vally i see coconut grooves and no habitat / settelment seen near by! deers come in way as speed breakers. there is this herbal fresh fragrance in the air.

Back to bangalore.

closing my eyes and what do i conjure up in mind after so many images? water lilies and plenty of waters. Attached image is Monet's impression of lotus pond. I wonder from where he got inspiration?!
till next time....